Wednesday morning was a lot more relaxed. First, we headed out to explore Borjomi and partake of their magic mineral and spring waters. They water has a strong sulfur smell with one spring giving cold water and the other a warm, both however are naturally carbonated. If the legends are true, this water should cure all my ailments. Next, we took the gondola up the mountain and we were finally able to ride on a Ferris wheel. They started it up just for us. Logan and I were the only passengers and we spent the whole ride taking selfies, standing, and doing whatever we wanted. After our ride a passerby told us that there was yet another "must-see” church. Logan started us out on a trek through the forest following markings on the trees. After a while, we came upon a guy in the trees that was surprised to see us. He was surprised Logan spoke Georgian as most people are, and the two got talking. As we were heading off and the man mentioned we could get to the church just as easily by sticking to the main road- so much for trail blazing. We got back on the road and continued our "short" walk. (No such thing, all our walks in Georgia ended up being more of an adventure than I ever saw coming.) We eventually found the church in the woods. It was the only church I saw in Georgia that was an outdoor church. The bells, the alter, everything was outside and open but in a remote location with a small structure nearby. We read the story of the famous monk who ate only grass and prayed on a rock for almost three years and poked around a little before heading back to our guesthouse.
Next on the list was Kutaisi where we would spend the night with a fellow PCV from Logan’s group. Karen is probably my age and has her own apartment which has been deemed "casa de Karen". This is a favorite hangout whenever someone from G15 group is in town. After another marshutka adventure we greeted in Kutaisi by some pouring rain. We were able to make it to Karen’s without getting too wet, dropped off our luggage and headed out to explore and eat. That night we to dinner with Karen and Jill, another PCV from Logan’s group. I had a great time getting to know more of Logan’s friends. Karen and Jill, like all the others I was able to spend time with, were so kind and giving. I have been so humbled to interact with all of these people from the Peace Corps, see how amazing they are, and how much they are doing with the Peace Corp. I can’t help but feel like an underachiever when I hear about all they are doing.
The following day, Thursday, we decided to forego marshutkas and hire a taxi for the entire day. We started our adventure at Prometheus Cave, then up in the mountains to see some beautiful waterfalls. As we hike down to the waterfalls I couldn’t get over how much hidden beauty there is all around us. We wanted to get some pictures sitting on the edge of a cliff overlooking a waterfall when it hit me that if anything happened to Logan out here I was doomed. Here I was in the middle of nowhere, in the mountains, in a small village where I'm sure no one speaks English. I would never be able to get out of here on my own. That thought made me hold on to Logan a little bit tighter as we made our way back out and to the car. Our next stop was another of my must-see places, Okatse Canyon. Our driver took us to the visitor’s center and told us that for another 30 Lari another person could drive us up to the entrance to the canyon or we could walk the 2km from the visitor’s center. I thought the walk wouldn’t be a big deal so we turned down the expensive offer.
What started out as a leisurely path through the trees, quickly turned into a sharp downhill decline. With every step the dread of our return trip up back up increased. Once we reached the canyon rim it was all worth it. I can’t even describe what the canyon and walkway was like. You descend onto a wooden walkway which is suspended out over the canyon and is anchored to the side of the cliff. As long as I didn’t think about the engineering too much we were ok, but if I looked down through the cracks it would hit how precarious of place I was in- I loved every minute of it!
By now each day was just an adventure to see how many steps and flights of stairs I could climb as we hiked and walked. That competitive mindset really helped me get my butt back up to where we began this trek, that and the promise of the first diet soda I had seen during my whole time in Georgia.
Our final stop, was the beautiful Martvili Canyon. Here we were able to take a canoe ride through the canyon to see some amazing scenery. I should say that I was able to ride, Logan somehow ended up having to paddle and was not happy about it, after all we did pay extra for this tour. (Logan: might I add that the guide in the back definitely wasn’t pulling his weight when it came to paddling.) I sat back and relaxed, snapping selfies and enjoying Logan’s unhappy face!
After a full day of exploring we talked our driver into taking us back to Karen’s house and then to the station so we could catch our ride to Poti to meet Logan’s current host family. When you meet someone for the first time you always want to make a good first impression and I knew that I looked as good as I felt. After this long day of hiking and walking with high humidity and occasional rain, to say I was unprepared to meet Logan’s family is an understanding. However, when we arrived the rain had started and I was thankful that Logan’s host dad and sister were waiting for us with a car. When we arrived at the house the rest of the family and some friends were waiting for us, so I put on a happy face and tried my best to not look how I felt.
Later after settling in I needed to take a shower. I gathered my stuff and Logan directed me to the shower room outside of the house. It was an adventure, but not much different than taking a shower in a campground. When I came back in the house everyone was still there waiting for me and Madona, his host mom, requested to take a picture. I had just gotten out of the shower- no makeup, dripping wet hair, and wearing my PJs. I smiled, and hesitantly agreed, made his host sister promise to delete the photo later.
The next morning, we were up early and on our way to Logan’s school. A day I'll not soon forget. I was humbled and overwhelmed with how kind the kids and teachers were to me. In the classes the kids were given the opportunity to ask me anything they wanted. It was so fun to see their reactions as I was told them about myself and family. Every class asked me how many children I had and were blown away when I told them I had 6 kids. Big families are not a thing in Georgia. My next favorite question was my age. I’ve come to terms with my age so I didn't mind it at all, I certainly loved their reactions to that. If ever I need an ego boost these kids could give it to me. They said I looked so young, they couldn't believe my age or that I was a grandma. (Logan: might I add that most Georgians thought we were brother and sister or a married couple, not my favorite…) In the 7th grade classroom, I felt like some type of rock star with how the kids welcomed me and the proceeded to put on an impromptu program with singing and dancing and then posing for pictures. Later as I was walking down the hall with Logan several girls came up to me and asked to take selfies. It was crazy but fun and I loved it! I felt bad that I had disrupted their class time; however, good old Logan didn't let them off the hook. With only a few minutes left in each class he made sure they all got homework assignments- what a kill joy!!
That night we met up with other Peace Corp volunteers that had come to town to help with a special event they were putting on for children with disabilities. We were able to enjoy a fun night at the famous Poti pirate ship restaurant. Logan also took me to meet the orphanage kids that he visits regularly. They were adorable! Each kid was so polite, taking our coats, pulling out chairs, and asking questions. I could not get over out well-mannered and kind they were. I wished I would have known before hand and remembered to bring them something from the US. They were easily the highlight of my night.
Saturday was the day of the big event, but unfortunately, it was a bust because of the weather. It rained most of the day and parents took it as an excuse to keep their kids with special needs at home. There is a lot of stigma associated with disabilities in Georgia and the weather was a good excuse for people to use. Despite the setback, there were a lot of youth volunteers that had signed up to help with the event who had some despite the rain. It quickly transformed in to a good training session for them along with games and karaoke. After pictures and good byes to the volunteers and Logan’s host family we made our way to the station for our last marshutka ride. This one turned out to be the best one yet. Several other PCVs were on board and we were able to talk and laugh- in English the entire way.
Batumi was our last stop, and this was to be my relaxing part of the trip. I insisted we stay in a nice hotel and I wasn't disappointed. I spent over half an hour standing in the shower letting the water rain down on my head and wash away all the dirt and sweat and smells of this amazing adventure. This by no means was my first shower but it was the best shower I’d had in almost 2 weeks. In the morning we had a huge brunch in the hotel and then headed out to explore the boardwalk, do some souvenir shopping, and then walk along the shores of the Black Sea. It was still threatening rain but it held off long enough for me to collect some rocks, take some selfies, and touch the water. The water ended up coming up on me while taking a picture and my feet and legs got wet but I was surprised by how warm the water was. If the weather had been nicer, we would have definitely gone swimming. Instead we ended up at Luca Polare for my final gelato treat. We even happened upon two other volunteers, Grace and Safi, who were also enjoying the best gelato in town so we invited them to join us for lunch before we all headed our separate ways. Since this was my last meal in Georgia, Logan insisted that I finally try the Acharuli khatchapuri or “cheese-boat” as it is often referred to. I hadn’t loved many of the various cheese breads we had tried thus far, but this one was definitely the best. Logan I and split one and I don’t think anyone one could ever eat a whole one in good consciousness.
For our final trip back to Tbilisi, Logan booked us first class tickets on a 6hr train ride across the country. As my time was quickly passing I couldn't believe all the history in this amazing country. We traveled east to west and then north to south. From the Russian border to the Turkish border and just about everything in between. The amount of history and in the country is incomprehensible and hard to wrap my mind around. I was saw places and things older than anything back home, some from before 500 BC. I can’t even describe everything I was able to see, touch, and experience.
My trip was 10 days of seeing and doing things I never imagined, eating foods with weird names, and listening to a loud strange language. Best of all I got to share this amazing opportunity with my son, traveling to places he has become a part of and to meeting people who love him almost as much as I do. It really does a mother’s heart good to hear people praise my son, and to meet all the amazing people he is working with in the Peace Corp that have become his "foreign family".
Thank you Peace Corp for taking such good care of him and for letting me see just how much is put into making sure these volunteers are always safe and accounted for. I left Georgia with a new appreciation for this small yet beautiful country and with my mind at peace knowing that my son is well cared for and loved. Thank you to all the friends, coworkers, and surrogate family members who made my trip one to remember.
Some final thoughts:
Things I really liked about Georgia:
- I always felt safe any time of the day
- When you go out to eat, your food comes out as soon as it is ready and hot; you seem to be getting food continually
- Warm hospitality from so many strangers
- Inexpensive foods
- Good khinkali, fried potatoes, tomato and cucumber salad, and hazelnuts
- Plenty of exercise walking everywhere
- Meeting PCVs and staff
- Seeing what my son's experience has been like!
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| Instead of a bathroom stall wall they opted for the scenic window... |
Things I didn't like during my trip:
- Marshutkas and drivers
- Crazy scary driving wherever we went
- No seat belts
- Speed limit never followed
- Cigarette smoke in small places
- No ice in my drink and no Diet Coke
- Salty cheeses
- Bartering for rides
- Loud voices
- Loud music on marshutkas
- Many old abandoned buildings
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